Batard on old dough
Wheat · hearth · lean
A lean artisan wheat batard built on salted old dough (pate fermentee): overall baker's percentages, batard shaping, scoring, steam, and a deeper flavor without new flour.
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Recipe
Current recipe
For baking now: the final working formula, ingredients, steps, and baking worksheet.
Taste & texture
The crust bakes to a deep golden-brown with an audible crackle, firm under the knife and giving way to a soft, mildly chewy crumb with irregular pores. Flavor is the main reward of old dough: a rounder, nuttier wheat taste with a faint aromatic tang that straight-yeast dough simply has not had time to build. There is no sourness — the salt inside the preferment keeps fermentation calm — but the finish is longer and more complex than a plain yeast loaf. Keeping is noticeably better: the loaf stays in good condition for up to two days at room temperature.
As described by: King Arthur Baking: preferments , Bake-Street: how to make bread with old dough
Baking worksheet
Good to know
Why is S1-C7 not focaccia?
Research showed that focaccia introduces oil and a sheet pan, which moves S1 away from the lean track. After poolish and biga, it is more logical to close out one more classic yeasted preferment — old dough.
How does old dough differ from biga and poolish?
It is a piece of already-mixed dough: it contains flour, water, salt, and yeast. So the main error is forgetting the salt inside the old dough and adding the full 8 g of salt a second time.
Can I use a piece of yesterday's dough?
Yes, that is the historical logic of pate fermentee, but for a teaching repeat it is better to mix a separate old dough with known mass, salt, and water.
What counts as success?
Even batard, opened score, clean mature aroma, a deeper flavor without a sharp alcohol note and without oversalting.
This batard is built not on a flashy ingredient but on bakery discipline: a salted old dough (pate fermentee) folded into a lean wheat dough. After poolish and biga it is easy to assume all preferments differ only in consistency. Old dough breaks that idea — it is not flour with water and yeast, but a small piece of fully built dough that already carries salt. The reward is a deeper, more mature bread flavor without moving to sourdough; the risk is double-salting the loaf if you forget the salt already living in the preferment.
The batard shape is deliberate. It is not a baguette and not a ciabatta, but a steady control shape that lets you compare what the preferment did to flavor while crust, scoring, and steam stay familiar.
How it’s baked around the world and why
Old dough is one of the oldest tricks in bread, and almost every baking culture has its own name for it. In France it is pâte fermentée — literally “fermented dough” — a piece pinched off yesterday’s lean dough and dropped into today’s mix. French bakers leaned on it because it gives a baguette or batard a rounder, nuttier flavor and a touch more strength without the daily upkeep of a sourdough culture. Italy uses the same idea under the looser name pasta di riporto, the dough that gets “carried over” from one bake to the next.
Why it works the same way everywhere: a mature old dough delivers organic acids, alcohols, and broken-down proteins that a fresh straight dough simply has not had time to build. Those compounds deepen aroma and crust color and make the gluten a little more extensible. The salt inside it is the cultural signature — bakers who pull from a finished dough are also carrying its salt and its slower, calmer fermentation, which is exactly why old dough resists going sharply sour the way an unsalted poolish can.
The modern caution is honesty. Modernist Bread points out that the differences between commercial preferments are routinely overstated: once overall hydration and total fermentation time match, poolish, biga, and old dough land closer together than legend suggests. So treat old dough as a controlled process variable — a reliable way to add maturity and manage salt math — not as guaranteed magic. If the flavor does not deepen, look first at crust color, maturity, and fermentation, not at the name of the preferment.
Old dough: how it works
Old dough literally means fermented dough. Historically it could be a piece of yesterday’s French dough added into a new mix. In a home teaching recipe it is better not to take a random piece of unknown dough but to make a small controlled old dough in the evening.
The key difference: old dough already contains salt.
| Element | What it does | Error | | --- | --- | --- | | Flour in the old dough | ferments ahead of time and brings maturity | treating it as an addition rather than part of overall flour | | Water | enters overall hydration | adding final water as if the old dough were not there | | Salt | slows fermentation and is already part of the overall 2% | adding the full 8 g of salt a second time | | Yeast | starts overnight maturation | giving it too much and getting an alcoholic smell | | Time | builds aroma and a fermentation base | waiting only by the clock and not watching the state |
The old mass should be porous, plastic, and smelling of bread. If it smells of sharp alcohol, has dropped, and tears in wet strings, that is not “more flavor” but overmaturity, and you should expect a weaker structure.
Formula
| Ingredient | Grams | % | | --- | ---: | ---: | | Flour | 400 | 100 | | Water | 272 | 68 | | Salt | 8 | 2 | | Fresh yeast | 2.5 | 0.625 |
Old dough: 120 g flour, 78 g water, 2.4 g salt, 0.3 g fresh yeast.
Final dough: all of the old dough, 280 g flour, 174 g water in the initial mix, 20 g water for the yeast slurry, 5.6 g salt, and 2.2 g fresh yeast.
The state of the old dough matters more than the clock.
If Something Goes Wrong
- Bread oversalted → the final salt went in without subtracting the salt already in the old dough; it should be 2.4 g in the preferment plus 5.6 g in the final dough.
- Alcoholic smell → the old dough over-matured or had too much yeast; lower the overnight temperature or yeast next time and watch the morning dome.
- Dense pieces in the crumb → the old dough was poorly torn or the rest was too short; tear it smaller, give the hydration rest, and mix more gently.
- Dense crumb overall → gas loss, underfermentation, or too tight a shape; revisit bulk, folds, the rest after preshape, and the proof.
- Score did not open → overproof, weak steam, or a shallow cut; check the poke test, steam, and the depth and angle of the score before touching the old dough.
- Flavor does not differ → a pale crust, undermature old dough, or slicing too early; push crust color, maturity, and cooling.
Sources
- King Arthur Baking: preferments — professional definitions of old dough (pate fermentee), biga, poolish, and sourdough opara.
- King Arthur Baking: baker’s percentages — why overall baker’s percentages matter with preferments.
- Modernist Bread: are biga, poolish, and sponge interchangeable — counterweight: do not overestimate the name of the preferment if overall hydration and fermentation match.
- San Francisco Baking Institute: Artisan I — base professional course: bakery math, mixing, fermentation, preferments, shaping, and baking.
- King Arthur Baking: six-fold French bread — lean French dough, folds, shaping, and bake with steam as a practical reference.
Ingredients
Change any amount — the rest rescale by the bread’s formula.
| Component | Grams | Baker's % |
|---|---|---|
| MukaMuka 13.5% flour | g | 100% |
| Water | g | 68% |
| Salt | g | 2% |
| Fresh yeast | g | 0.63% |
Ingredient details
MukaMuka 13.5% flour
- Role
- the same strong white flour, so that old dough rather than grain flavor is the main new variable
- Split across stages
- 120 g into the old dough and 280 g into the final dough
- Brand the author uses
- MukaMuka 13.5% protein (mukamuka.ru)
- Alternatives
- Aleyna Vivapol 12-13%, Makfa premium grade
Water
- Role
- 68% gives a more plastic batard while keeping shaping manageable after S1-C6
- Split across stages
- 78 g into the old dough, 174 g into the initial final mix, and 20 g for the yeast slurry
- Brand the author uses
- Tap water through Barrier Iron x2 filter
- Alternatives
- any filtered or bottled drinking water
Salt
- Important
- 2.4 g of salt are already inside the old dough; only 5.6 g go into the final dough
- Brand the author uses
- Pink Himalayan salt
- Alternatives
- sea or table salt (avoid iodized)
Fresh yeast
- Split across stages
- 0.3 g into the old dough and 2.2 g into the final dough
- Why so little in the old dough
- old dough matures overnight and already contains salt, so it needs only a micro-dose of yeast
- Brand the author uses
- Lux (Voronezh) fresh or Ayrek (homemade)
- Alternatives
- any fresh yeast in a 100 g pack
Conditions and equipment
Conditions
- Dough type
- lean wheat dough on a salted old dough (pate fermentee), 68% hydration, no butter, sugar, or milk
- Focus
- overall baker's percentages, salt living inside the preferment, batard shaping, and maturity diagnostics
- Doneness criterion
- crust well colored, score opened, internal temperature 96–98 °C, crumb neither raw nor rubbery
Equipment
- Old dough
- a small 500–700 ml container with a lid; a level mark is useful
- Mix
- Kenwood KVC85.004SI with the dough hook: short mix on Min/1 without overheating
- Shaping
- scraper, minimal bench flour, banneton or cloth for a batard
- Baking surface
- two Estet baking stones (2 cm thick): 40×30 cm on the 2nd level from the top (top heat) and 30×25 cm on the 2nd level from the bottom; load the batard onto the lower stone (30×25) so steam from below reaches the dough. Preheat both to 250 °C
- Steam
- the oven's built-in steam injection — first 10 minutes
- Scoring
- lame/razor for one long longitudinal cut
- Control
- scale with tenth-of-a-gram precision, probe thermometer, timer, kitchen temperature sensor, morning state of the old dough, and description of the slice
Nutrition: how to eat this bread
Bread nutrition facts
Per 100 g of bread
237 kcal
protein 8.1 g · fat 1.1 g · carbs 47.8 g
Per slice (50 g)
119 kcal
protein 4.1 g · fat 0.6 g · carbs 23.9 g
Automatic calculation from USDA + Skurikhin database for the baked loaf after evaporation. Numbers are approximate: 1) the database covers ingredients, not finished dough; 2) bake water loss is assumed at 10% — actual loss depends on crust, time, and pan. Add 5–10% in calorie trackers if needed.
Bread is a source of starch and energy. Its nutrition depends on flour, fermentation, salt, enrichment, serving size, and the rest of the plate.
- Digestion
- More whole grain, fibre, and fermentation usually mean longer satiety. White flour eaten alone is generally digested faster.
- Helpful or harmful
- Bread is not poison or medicine by itself. Overall diet matters; current guidance prioritizes whole grains, vegetables, fruits, and pulses.
- Amount
- For most learning tastings, 1–2 slices, about 30–80 g, is enough depending on loaf density.
- Best pairings
- Pair with protein, vegetables, and moderate fat; avoid making it a large standalone portion with sweet drinks or sweet spreads.
How to eat
- Taste the bread plain for learning, then eat it as part of a balanced plate.
- Slice dense rye thinner; with soft white bread, make sure softness does not automatically increase the serving.
Limits
- Wheat and rye breads contain gluten.
- For medical conditions, adjust bread type and serving size with a clinician or dietitian.
Instructions
-
Mix the old dough
Mix 120 g flour, 78 g water, 2.4 g salt, and 0.3 g fresh yeast, cover, and leave overnight.
-
Build the final dough
Tear the old dough, mix with 280 g of flour and 174 g of water, then rest 20 minutes.
-
Add yeast and salt
Add 2.2 g of yeast with 20 g of water, then 5.6 g of salt, and finish a short mix to smoothness.
-
Bulk ferment
Run about 2 hours with 1–2 gentle folds, tracking the speed-up from old dough.
-
Shape the batard
Preshape, rest 15 minutes, shape a batard, and proof 45–60 minutes.
-
Score and bake
Make one longitudinal score and bake 10 minutes at 250 °C with steam, then 18–22 minutes at 220 °C dry to 96–98 °C internal.
Version history
- v1.0May 23, 2026in development
- Problem
- After poolish in S1-C5 and biga in S1-C6, the course needed a lesson on the third yeasted preferment without introducing butter or sourdough.
- Change
- Created S1-C7: batard on old dough, 68% water, 30% of the flour preferred in the old dough, overall baker's percentages, separate control of salt in the preferment, and a working sheet for an evening start.
- Result
- The lesson tests old-dough maturity, overall formula math, inclusion of old dough in the mix, batard shaping, and flavor without new flour.
- Conclusion
- S1-C7 should close out yeasted preferments before moving to a sourdough opara and sourdough acidity.